Mountains set with giant Flintstone-like boulders, ranch towns stacked with haybales, stores selling nothing but pot-bellied stoves… Driving Highway 78 to Julian has you feeling like Calamity Jane exploring the Old West…

Standing on sun-dappled Main Street you can see top to bottom of this historic gold rush mining town in one glance – the old-fashioned soda fountain stores, the cowboy boot vendors and, be still my beating heart, the apple pie shops with freshly-baked fare. (Though no one got rich panning for gold, the ground proved to be fertile fodder for apple trees!)

Bodie and I were masquerading as a wholesome family with pal Jerry and his daughter Teagan and our first stop was Grandpa’s Old Time Photo at the OK Corral (3rd & B Street – Tel: 760 504 2822.) Many of the sepia-toned pics feature dogs, though Bodie was so heat-drowsy all he could do was splay on the floor (as opposed to swig from a bottle of Jack Daniels or sling a gun.)

Next stop was the E Barrett General Store (211 Main Street, Tel: 800 765 5153) on account of their Frozen Dog Treats…

There’s also a big glass jar of mini biscuits, courtesy the store owner’s dogs:

Now revived, Bodie enjoyed exploring the treasure-packed nooks and crannies.

His eye went to The American Dog At Home, mine to the vintage typewriter.

At the back of the store there’s a bar – with a twist! Instead of wine or beer they offer root beer tasting! 34 options and you can try 8 root beer flavors for $5.

WHERE TO EAT:

BREAKFAST/LUNCH: We started the day on the upstairs terrace at Carmen’s Place (2018 Main Street, Tel: 760 765 4600, open from 7am), offering a full Mexican breakfast menu (including Mexican Hot Chocolate with its pinch of cayenne pepper) as well as traditional American, with particularly yummy French Toast. Lunch also runs the gamut from burgers to burritos.

COFFEE: Granny’s Kitchen (1921 Main Street, Tel: 760-765-2900) has a large dog-friendly patio at the far end of town and every configuration of caffeinated beverage.

APPLE PIE BREAK: This is the essential must-eat highlight of the day. Other pie stores will tempt but for the ultimate taste sensation head to the front porch of the Julian Pie Company at 2225 Main Street. I favored the Original pie made with Granny Smith apples, Jerry liked the extra sweetness of the Dutch crumble topping, Teagan was all about the ice-cream and Bodie was just happy to find a seat in the shade.

DINNER: Highly recommend the spacious, twinkling patio at The Julian Grille. (2224 Main Street, Tel: 760 765 0173) The main building is a 1920s cottage brimming with charm and serving up such delights as Sweet Georgia Peach Chicken and – for those who have had their fill of apple pie – Chocolate Wipe Out Cake. They also offer lunch from 11am. Dinner is from 4.30pm Tuesday-Sunday.

WHERE TO STAY: Tucker Peak Lodge (760 765 3975) may be a ten minute drive from Main Street but staying here adds another dimension to your Julian experience!

Eagles do indeed soar above as you make your ascent. The steep driveway requires an extra surge of gas and then you gasp as you take in the unspoiled view – there’s gold in them-there hills! (At least in the color of the land!)

The lodge comprises a large main building and an above-garage annex, which is where we laid our heads. Pet-friendly Mountain View has three beds and an abundance of chintz with high wood-panelled ceilings and a tub with a floral canopy.

Come sunset you and your dog can stroll out onto the expansive deck and watch the sky transition through lilac, pink and gold, immersing yourself in the panoramic color bliss and the warmest breeze.

At night the black sky becomes a-spangle with stars and you can peer closer at the constellations through the Tucker Lodge telescope, maybe even make a wish on Sirius the Dog Star – the perfect relaxing end to a relaxing day.

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